If you‘ve only seen Florence through the lens of a guidebook or a quick stop on a tour bus, you’ve missed her true beauty. It’s not that the Duomo, Uffizi Gallery, or Ponte Vecchio aren’t spectacular – they are – but the city’s soul lives elsewhere. It’s found in the rhythm of daily life, wandering the streets, finding your favorite café or bakery, and returning day after day, getting to know the people who work there. Striking up conversations with others as you sit in a café with your morning cappuccino and a cornetto, or in the late evening with a glass of wine and a cigar, watching life and the characters on the street as they saunter by. Or just exploring the streets in the opposite direction of the tourist areas to see the beautiful architecture while imagining what life was like centuries earlier. This is my Florence, the city I fell in love with back in 2021 when I lived there for a month. It’s where I became a local, lived my life as the Italians do, and made friends along the way. It’s a special place for me and a place where I return yearly and call a second home.
I wanted to share a few of my favorite places that have just become part of my life when I’m in Florence. Part 1 of this series features the incredible Basilica di San Miniato al Monte. Let’s dive in!
Basilica di San Miniato al Monte
The walk up to Basilica di San Miniato al Monte is one of my favorite experiences in Florence. It’s a climb, yes – but worth every step. From the Centro Storico, taking you over the Ponte Vecchio through the going to your left past some of the shops to the Via de Bardi taking you along this old street lined with artisan shops such as perfumeries, old book makers and even what I like to call the “wizard shop” with it’s interesting clocks, jewelry and other knickknacks. One can only imagine the people who originally inhabited this part of Florence, horses tied up to the ornate iron rings on the sides of the buildings, and the people in their Renaissance period clothing walking the streets. This is a quiet part of Florence, less traveled by most tourists, and yet with a peaceful charm about it.
Continuing along, you come across a number of restaurants, and as one rounds the corner and proceeds up the street through the Porta San Miniato, one of the entrances through the old city, you come across what has become my go-to on this journey, Spazio Alimentari. It’s a great place to stop for a rest and lunch. I enjoy their house-made pasta and salads. They also serve pizza and a variety of other Tuscan favorites at a reasonable price. Always inviting. It’s not unusual for me to arrive there feeling a bit warm, so cooling down with an ice-cold beer is one of my go-tos.
As I wind my way up the street, I like to go through the terraced Rose Garden, the entrance can be found through a small opening in the wall. A favorite hangout for locals on sunny afternoons. People lounge with books, picnic with friends, or simply stretch out in the grass to soak up the view.
Continuing up, you reach Piazzale Michelangelo, the grand viewing terrace overlooking all of Florence. The view here is spectacular at any time of day, but it becomes magic at sunset. The city glows golden, the Arno glimmers, and you feel like you’re looking at a living Renaissance painting. There are a number of artisan vendors selling handmade leather items, jewelry, ceramics, cooking utensils, and more. In addition, there are also vendors selling the usual tourist items. It’s definitely worth a browse to pick up some unique items.
And lastly, a bit further up is the final climb to San Miniato al Monte. One can only imagine the parishioners making the climb up the broad stone stairs to attend services, celebrations, and funerals, and the Benedictine monks who have occupied, worshiped, and kept this beautiful sacred space well-maintained.
This is a pre-Renaissance basilica, founded in 1018, with construction taking 2 centuries to complete. The moment you step inside, you feel the difference. The air is cool, the light is soft, and the majestic ceiling stretches high with beautifully painted wooden beams supported by marble columns and arches. The space has a timeless stillness about it with ancient Byzantine-style frescoes clinging to the walls and a beautiful mosaic adorning the cupola above the pulpit, whispering stories that go back centuries.
Inside, toward the back, below the pulpit, are stairs leading down to the crypt containing the relics of Saint Minias hidden in a Romanesque altar. It’s dimly lit with three lancet windows and candles. There are benches to sit on, and it’s a nice, quiet place to meditate and reflect.
Behind the basilica lies one of the most beautiful cemeteries I’ve ever wandered through. Cimitero delle Porte Sante (The Sacred Doors Cemetery), inaugurated in 1848, is a place of stone angels, ornate monuments, and elaborate headstones – each one a piece of art. I’ve spent hours wandering through the monuments, taking in the history of decades past. One statue of 2 lovers, perhaps the ones who died together, sticks in my mind from my visits there. It’s definitely a place you want to allow plenty of time to wander through.
This is a great way to spend a day. Give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the walk, exploring along the various places of interest along the way, taking your time to take it all in at a leisurely pace.
-Rico Mandel, CEO, Miz En Place
Who is Rico Mandel?
Rico, the visionary founder and CEO of Miz En Place, embodies a lifelong journey fueled by passions for photography, filmmaking, culinary arts, business acumen, exploration, and entertainment. His mission is to unite people in support of artisanal small businesses worldwide. Rico eagerly welcomes the opportunity to share his compelling story and expertise, inspiring your culinary adventures and dreams.
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Have you had the opportunity to visit Florence, Italy? Where did you go? What did you see? What did you eat? What were your thoughts and favorite moments? Let us know in the comments!
