Nestled in an unassuming neighborhood lined with trees, colonial and Spanish-style homes are some unassuming heavy wooden gates, behind which are a 16-acre rolling property, 7.25 of which are grapevines—the raw materials used in making the wines of Moraga Vineyards.
When I arrived, the gates opened, and I was transported out of Los Angeles into a vineyard estate reminiscent of those I’ve seen in the rolling hills of Sonoma or the Chianti region in Italy. The beautiful vines stretched before me, leading my eye to the rows curving along the hillsides, interrupted only by the occasional towering old-growth oak trees.
This historic property, once the horse ranch of Victor Fleming, director of Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz, became a vineyard in 1978 under Thomas Jones, the former chief executive of Northrop Corp. The first wine, a Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend, was released in 1992, followed by their first white wine in 2000. Today, it’s owned by Rupert Murdoch, who purchased it in 2013 with the promise to allow Thomas Jones to live on the property until his passing and to carry on the winemaking tradition he established. Jones passed away in 2014.
Walking up the dirt path, I felt as though I was stepping deeper into another world—one where time slows, and the buzz of the city fades into the background. The winery’s architecture reflects this harmony, blending seamlessly with its surroundings. The wooden structures, modern yet rustic, feel perfectly at home among the oaks and gently sloping vineyards. Each corner of the property reveals something new—rows of meticulously tended vines, stone walls that seem to have always been there, and views, such that of the Getty Center, that remind you this oasis is still, somehow, in the heart of Los Angeles.
Our host, winemaker, and general manager, Paul Warson, a soft-spoken man, greeted us warmly, embodying the quiet confidence of someone who knows the value of patience and precision. Paul, a Los Angeles native and UC Davis graduate, joined Moraga in 2021, bringing decades of experience from Carneros, Australia, Napa Valley, and Santa Ynez. At Chateau Potelle on Mount Veeder in Napa, he learned an important principle that shapes his winemaking to this day: “With each wine that is created, the winemaker has an intimate commitment to both the wine and the consumer, to craft wines that are distinctive and true to their place.” This philosophy is at the core of everything he does at Moraga.
The 2024 growing season was unusually long and cool, which brought lower yields of about 2 tons compared to the usual 4 tons in years past — just 200 to 300 cases this year—but more concentrated flavors. As Paul explained, this is part of the vineyard’s ethos: taking time to do things right the first time. When I arrived, the crew had already completed their early-morning harvest, carefully handpicking clusters of Sauvignon Blanc. Each cluster is scrutinized and only the best clusters make the cut. Paul’s approach is to embrace a touch of botrytis—a natural process that he feels, in small amounts, adds layers of complexity to the wine as it matures.
Moraga’s winemaking process is as meticulous as its harvest. In the state-of-the-art winery, the freshly picked Sauvignon Blanc clusters were weighed before being loaded into the press. Standing next to the press, the drone of the bladder expanding in the press followed by the sound of the juice flowing out—a steady rhythm of large, raindrop-like splashes, each one a precursor to the grape’s transformation to wine. From there, the juice was pumped into stainless steel fermentation tanks, lined neatly along the walls of the winery, where it would begin its journey from juice to wine.
No French-inspired winery would be complete without an aging cave, and Moraga’s is nothing short of magical. Beneath one of the hillsides behind massive wooden doors lies a cool, damp cavern filled with rows of barrels, each holding a vintage quietly maturing to perfection. The air is a mix of oak and wine, a scent that somehow feels ancient and new at the same time. The cave also houses Moraga’s library of wines, dating back decades—a tangible archive of the vineyard’s history and evolution.
The tasting was, of course, the highlight of the day. We began with two vintages of Sauvignon Blanc: the 2021, which was crisp, vibrant, and layered with complexity, and the 2013, an astonishingly well-preserved white that showed little of the golden hues typical of older vintages. Its flavors were nuanced and unexpected, a testament to Moraga’s focus on crafting wines built for longevity. Next, we sampled the reds—a 2019 vintage, bursting with dark berry notes and balanced tannins, and a 2002 that was a fully realized expression of Moraga’s potential. This older vintage was soft yet structured, with fruit and tannins that had harmonized beautifully over time.
At Moraga, each bottle tells a story—of the land, the meticulous care of the vineyard team, and the winemaker’s vision. These wines are crafted not just to be enjoyed upon release but to age gracefully, revealing new layers of complexity over time. The just-released 2021 whites, for example, are already showing their potential, hinting at a future where their flavors will deepen and evolve. Touring and tasting at Moraga is an experience unlike any other. The juxtaposition of this serene vineyard with the city surrounding it is striking, a reminder that even in the heart of Los Angeles, you can find a world dedicated to the art of winemaking. Tours and tastings are available by appointment only, with occasional events open to the public—a true hidden gem for those lucky enough to visit. – Inquiries can be made here – https://www.moragabelair.com/
-Rico Mandel, Miz En Place CEO
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