Sfogliatella (sfo-lya-TEL-la), sometimes called a lobster tail, is a traditional Italian pastry from the region of Campania, particularly associated with Naples. The name “sfogliatella” means “small, thin leaf” or “layered,” which refers to the pastry’s characteristic thin, flaky layers that resemble stacked leaves or seashells. The pastry is filled with a rich, sweet mixture typically made from ricotta cheese, semolina, sugar, eggs, and candied citrus peel. Sfogliatella comes in two main varieties: “riccia,” which has a crisp, multi-layered exterior, and “frolla,” which has a smoother, dough-like texture. This iconic Italian treat is enjoyed as a dessert or a special breakfast item and is often dusted with powdered sugar before serving.
Where did this pastry come from?
The history of the sfogliatella pastry dates back to the 17th century. According to legend, the pastry was first created by nuns in the Santa Rosa monastery on the Amalfi Coast. They devised the recipe as a way to use leftover semolina cooked in milk. The nuns combined this with dried fruit, sugar, and ricotta cheese, then encased the mixture in a layered dough resembling a monk’s hood. This original version, known as “sfogliatella Santa Rosa,” gained popularity over time. In the early 19th century, a pastry chef named Pasquale Pintauro from Naples acquired the recipe from the nuns and modified it, creating the “sfogliatella riccia” and making it widely available in his bakery. Pintauro’s version featured the distinctive shell shape and flaky layers that sfogliatella is known for today. The pastry quickly became a beloved part of Neapolitan cuisine and remains a celebrated Italian delicacy.
Photos copyright Rico Mandel, treats courtesy of the Antico Forno delle Sfogliatelle Calde Fratelli Attanasio bakery.
How are sfogliatella pastries made?
Making sfogliatella is a meticulous process that requires skill and patience to achieve its characteristic flaky layers and rich filling. Basically, the dough is made by mixing flour, water, and a pinch of salt until smooth, then kneading it thoroughly and letting it rest. Once rested, the dough is rolled out into a very thin sheet, brushed with melted lard or butter, and rolled into a tight log before being chilled. For the filling, semolina flour is cooked with milk until thickened, then combined with ricotta cheese, sugar, eggs, vanilla, cinnamon, and citrus zest, sometimes including candied citrus peel. After chilling, the dough log is sliced into rounds, each of which is shaped into a cone with thin, overlapping layers. The cones are filled with the ricotta mixture, sealed, and baked at a high temperature until golden brown and crispy. The finished pastries are typically dusted with powdered sugar before serving, resulting in a delicious treat with a unique texture and flavor.
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